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  Все, что вы хотели узнать о притирах, но боялись спросить ( 1 )

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Автор Тема:   Все, что вы хотели узнать о притирах, но боялись спросить версия для печати
Nikolay_K
31-3-2009 04:16 Nikolay_K    

Все, что вы хотели узнать о притирах, но боялись спросить

Тут будем собирать информацию о том что такое притиры, какие они бывают, из чего их изготавливают, для чего применяют, чем они лучше водных и прочих камней и т.д.

quote:
Originally posted by dmitrichW: http://forum.guns.ru/forummessage/224/444431-m32078926.htm


Уважаемые коллеги, мне придётся немного повторить из своего опыта подготовки и работе на притирах - много вопросов по Емеле.

Многие спрашивают совета как правильно и качественно подготовить доводочную плиту.

Сразу скажу - не многие из Вас будут этим заниматься.

Лучше иметь 3и квадратных, одинаковых доводочных плиты.

Не знаю, как Вы будете их подготавливать, покажу, как надо их подготавливать для доводки.

После шлифования на станке надо довести поверхность доводочной плиты до идеальной плоскости и с шероховатостью
не ниже треугольника 10 --- ровная зеркальная идеально плоская поверхность.

Доводка - финишная операция, при которой снимается слой металла от силы 0,01мм и то не за один проход и чтобы получить
правильную геометрию изделия, поверхность доводочной плита должна быть соответствующей.


Но доводочные плиты тоже изнашиваются. Если есть возможность, можно снова применить шлифовальный станок с последующей доводкой до плоского зеркала.

Сам ремонтировал доводочные плиты то технологии указанно в этой литературе - шабрение методом 3х плит,
далее притирка методом 3х плит. Это не долго, если есть шабер с краской и соответствующий абразивный порошок с керосином и стеарином.

---

Честнов А.Л. Технология изготовления измерительных инструментов...
http://www.chipmaker.ru/files/file/4876/
стр. 239 очень не внятно о доводке доводочных плит.
Стр. 327 шабрение методом 3х плит - действительно правильный и верный метод по сравнению с другими источниками.

---

Мовчин В.Н. Технология производства измерительных инструментов и приборов
http://www.twirpx.com/file/689203/
стр. 310 механическая доводка порошками - очень информативно.
Стр. 317 - подготовка доводочной плиты очень подробно.

...
С большим к Вам уважением, Дмитрич.



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Nikolay_K
31-3-2009 04:24 Nikolay_K    

Введение
Что такое притирка
Притиры
Притирочные машины
Мокрая притирка
Сухая притирка
Правила притирки


Притиры обычно изготавливают из мягкого чугуна, меди, бронзы, свинца или керамики. В общем мягкий мелкозернистый чугун --- лучший материал для прецизионной притирки. Какой бы материал не использовался для изготовления притира, в любом случае он должен быть более мягким, чем обрабатываемая деталь. Иначе деталь зашаржируется сама вместо притира и станет резать притир.

Притиры для грубой плоской притирки работают лучше, если их поверхность покрыта узкими канавками. Обычно они расположены на расстоянии в 1см друг от друга и образуют квадратную сетку (как на шахматной доске).

Притиры для точной плоской притирки имеют гладкую поверхность без канавок и шаржируются тонким абразивом. После шаржирования весь оставшийся абразив должен быть удален (смыт бензином или другим растворителем).

В процессе притирки поверхность притира должна быть увлажнена керосином или легким маслом (маслом с низкой вязкостью).

Свободный абразив не должен наноситься в процессе работы (на поверхность притира). Если притир хорошо зашаржирован в начале и его хорошо увлажняют в процессе притирки, то он будет работать (резать) в течении длительного времени.

Давление в процессе работы должно быть достаточным для обеспечения контакта притира с деталью, но не более того. Если приложить излишнее давление при работе, то абразивное зерно начнет просто процарапывать поверхность (видимым образом местами появятся длинные царапины). Причиной таких царапин может быть оставшийся свободный абразив на поверхности, плохое качество абразивного зерна (попадаются более крупные частицы) или избыточное давление.


To produce a perfectly smooth surface, free from scratches, the lap should be charged with a very fine abrasive. When the entire surface of the lap is charged, clean and examine the lap for bright spots. If there are any visible bright spots, continue the charging until the entire surface has a gray appearance. If a lap is once charged is should be used without applying more abrasives until it ceases to cut. If a lap is overcharged and an excessive amount of abrasive is used, there is a rolling action between the work and the lap, which results in inaccuracy.

The surface of a flat lap is usually finished true prior to charging by scraping and testing with a standard surface plate or by a method of scraping where three plates are lapped together to secure a plane surface. In any case, the varying marks or spots must be uniform and close together. These spots can be blended, by covering the plates evenly with a fine abrasive and rubbing them together.

With the wet method of using a surface lap there is a surplus of oil and abrasive on the surface of the lap. As the specimen is moved there is shifting of the abrasive particles. With the dry method, the lap is first charged by rolling or rubbing the abrasive into the surface. All surplus oil and abrasive are then washed off, leaving a clean surface and one that has a uniform embedding of small particles of abrasive. It is like the surface of a very fine oilstone and will cut away the hardened steel that is rubbed over it. While this had been called the dry method, in practice the lap is kept moistened with gasoline, naptha or any other thin-filmed oil.

In lapping it is desirable to avoid unnecessary scratching. For a fine background even a minute scratch is evident and unsightly. In some cases it is detrimental to the general functioning of the part. To prevent scratching, several conditions must be observed and maintained. The room where lapping is being performed must be reasonably free from dust. The proper abrasive must be selected and a suitable vehicle or carrier used. The proper amount of abrasive must be applied and used at the right time.

Generally speaking, the most suitable abrasive is one that is readily embedded in the surface of the lap. Soft cast iron is used for making laps on mechanical machines with a fine abrasive. To insure straight work the lap surface must be perfectly flat. To prevent undue wear the lap width should be made to conform with the length of the work being lapped. The laps may be made flat with true plane surfaces by dressing together in sets of three as in making master surface plates. Dress plate No. 1 with plate No. 2, No. 1 with No. 3 and then No. 2 with No. 3. The surface condition of the laps will determine the quality of the finish. By the use of multi-motion and ever changing work movement relative to the work, a true lapping action is obtained, and uniform lap wear is assured.

The advice given to a machine operator should be similar to that given to the chef who makes the salad. "Be a miser with the vinegar and a spendthrift with the oil," but in this case it should be, "Be a miser with the abrasive and a spendthrift with the oil." This is the secret of good lapping. When there is a super abundance of abrasive rolling loosely on the laps and the work, it is almost impossible to obtain a good finish. The lap wears unduly and the accuracy of the product is sacrificed.

An old method of lapping consisted of lapping with a soft metal lap, into which was rolled an abrasive such as diamond dust, Silicon carbide or one of the natural abrasives. The metal laps serve much the same purpose as the bond in a grinding wheel. In the modern method, the abrasive is embodied in a suitable carrying base or vehicle and allowed to roll between the lap and the work.

Using this method, it is essential to select the lap material with care, considering the material of which the work is made. Strange as it may seem, in this process the greatest amount of stock is removed from the harder of the two parts. Therefore the lap must be softer. The reason for this is that in either very soft or very porous laps the abrasive grains are held temporarily stationary by being embedded in the lap. Since their position is fixed with respect to the lap but moving with respect to the work, they cut the work. Thus it is very easy to see that the lap material has a great influence on the speed, accuracy and finish of the work.

Open grained cast iron will work faster than dense cast iron or steel. For certain jobs laps are made of the softer metals or even wood. The speed depends upon several variables such as the material to be lapped, the material of the lap, the type of vehicle, the type and size of abrasive, the pressure on the lap and the personal skill and even the psychology of the operator.


THE DEFINITIONS OF LAPPING:
LAPPING is the balancing of abrasive grit size and proper hardness or kind of abrasive against lapping time and the pressure of the part on the plate or lap.

The proper balance is achieved when all abrasive particles break down completely into inert sizes, while removing the desired amount of metal and wearing out the abrasive power of the particles.

There are no hard, fast rules to follow and each operator must experiment to find the proper compound and proper lap. He then combines them with his own skill and experience to solve his lapping problem.

Lapping has four main purposes:
• to obtain greater accuracy as to dimensions
• to improve imperfections of shape
• to obtain a smoother polished surface
• to improve the fit between surfaces.


LAPPING PLATES: Good lapping plates are made of soft, close-grained cast iron or meehanite. A scleroscope hardness of 27 to 32 has proven best for cast iron surfaces. Harder laps will often cause glazing and scratching while softer laps cause a loss of flatness and parallelism and will produce grayer finishes.

The plate should be heavy enough and properly designed so it will not distort in use. Its surface may be plain or grooved. Plain plates are best suited for lapping cylindrical work and for extreme accuracy. Grooved plates, which have a working surface serrated with vee-grooves V.040 deep and 1/2" apart, are preferred for lapping flat work only. A rotating plate may have a spiral groove leading from the center to the outside edge.


LAPPING MACHINES & SPECIFICATION questionnaire (hand lapping with a rotating plate): Vertical-spindle lapping machines, with single horizontal rotating plates, are made in sizes from 10" to 56" in diameter. These machines can be equipped with any desired lap material, bonded abrasive disc or lapping wheel. As the lap rotates the work, held by hand, is moved at random across the lapping wheel. If the size or weight of the part does not provide proper pressure, the operator must apply whatever is necessary. Light pressure gives greatest accuracy, heavy pressure removes stock more rapidly.


MECHANICAL LAPPING: This method includes the addition of a mechanical means of applying pressure and motion. The work or parts are carried in a holder of the planetary type that revolves or rotates about the center of the lap. Mechanical lapping can also be performed with non-rotating laps for certain types of flat lapping: for gage blocks, etc. Machines of this type have a stationary lower and a removable non-rotating upper lap. The weight of the upper lap can be adjusted to meet lapping requirements. Such lapping machines may also use bonded abrasive laps.

Another method of lapping is a refinement of cente-less grinding to produce straight cylindrical objects. Such a machine has two rotating rollers. One roller is twice the size of the other. Both revolve slowly at the same speed and in the same direction. The work is held in the throat or V between them and is caused to rotate at the speed of the smaller roller. Because of its increased surface speed over that of the work, the large roller causes a rapid lapping action. The lapping pressure is applied manually through a notched fiber stick held against the work and moved evenly over the entire surface. It is desired to correct taper or other error, the stick is held longer on the portion requiring more stock removal.

Cylindrical parts to be lapped by this method must be ground within 0.005" of the finished size and well within the tolerance for the roundness desired. Usually tow machines are available, or two sets of laps-one set for roughing and the other for finishing. Diamond compounds must be used for tungsten carbide parts. Several of the alumina compounds can be used to impart color or luster to the part and in most cases this finishing is done with a slight addition of naptha or gasoline to the rotation rollers.


EXTERNAL LAPS: These laps are usually in the form of a ring which is split and adjustable by means of a screw arrangement. Some external laps have an inner-ring of copper, brass, lead, tin, etc. External lap length should be at least equal to, or longer than, the diameter of the part being lapped.


WET LAPPING: In wet lapping, the abrasive is mixed into a carrier or vehicle. This even film of abrasive covers the total lap area. The carrier acts as a lubricant and absorbs the heat generated by the abrasive against the metal. It allows the abrasive to cut the material by resisting the rolling of the abrasive granules.


DRY LAPPING: This method is used for the final finishing of a part. Laps are charged with the proper abrasive and the surface is barely moistened with a very thin oil such as spindle oil, gasoline, naptha, mineral seal oil, etc.

Caution: Kerosene may cause scratches.

Just enough pressure to insure contact is used. If too much pressure is used, or if the lapping operation is too fast in motion, the lap may strip. Foreign matter, such as dirt and lint from the operators clothing and various sources, can also cause scratches in the work. A wash stand for frequent use by the operator is recommended for all lapping departments.

NOTE: Lapping often precedes polishing, and the quality of a polished surface is largely dependent on the lapping process. The selection of lapping abrasives, vehicles, additives, pressures, speed, plates and many other factors play an important role in this complex, controlled stock removal process. When the quality of a polished surface is critical, we strongly recommend selecting the finest uniform-graded abrasive compound available.


LAPPING RULES OF THUMB:
(knowledge gained through practical experience)

• A lap should be softer than the part to be lapped.

• The abrasive in the compound should be as hard as the metal being lapped. Hard abrasives will charge or embed in a softer metal. A non-embedding or non-charging compound should be used for soft metals, for instance, Garnet abrasive for brass or bronze. The softer the metal, the softer the abrasive. The harder the metal, the harder the abrasive.

• A high lap speed will increase stock removal. For a rotary lap, speed of approximately 275 rpm is recommended. If the lap pressure is too high it will score the part.

• An increase of pressure, of the part again the lap, will increase the speed of the cut.

• Serrated or grooved laps are best for flat surfaces with large areas or flat areas with holes in the surface.

• Laps with no serration or grooves are preferred for cylindrical lapping.

• Abrasives when mixed into an oily paste or greasy vehicle will give better results than just a mixture of fluid oils and abrasives.

• Tungsten carbide is best lapped with a Diamond compound. A Norbide or Boron-Carbide abrasive will slowly abrade the metal, but the finish is not equal.

• A gray or frost-like surface may be as smooth and accurate as a bright finish. A bright or polished surface does not indicate that it is smooth, but a smooth surface may be bright or polished.

• A polished surface is harder to produce than a gray matte finish and will show scratches more readily.

• It is more difficult to lap soft metals than hard metals.

• A soft lap will cut faster, wear longer and give a brighter surface than a hard lap. A hard lap cuts slowly, wears faster and gives a duller finish, but its accuracy of lapping is greater.

• Use our lapping compounds sparingly. Too much is worse than too little. Excess compound removes metal but does not correct the error in parts.

• Final finishing should be done only with a charged lap lubricated with thin oil, naptha, gasoline, spindle, etc.

• Thin work pieces can be lapped parallel but not necessarily flat.

• Final finishes are best obtained with no loose abrasive on the plate. Use the embedded abrasive granules in the surface of the plate and a very thin lubricant.

• When soft metal parts such as brass or bronze running seals are lapped, a non-embedding abrasive should be used. We recommend compounds containing a Garnet abrasive such as our "GK" series of compounds.

• Red Rouge (Ferric Oxide) is recommended as a polishing medium for soft metals.

• Green Rouge (Chromium Oxide) is well suited for the polishing of stainless, chrome and other hard metals. It is also used for plastic.

• Different kinds of abrasives or grit sizes should not be used at the same time on the same plate. It is recommended to use one plate for any roughing operation and another plate for finishing operations.

• Diamond compounds should be used for lapping tungsten carbide or other metals when the Rockwell C hardness exceeds 64.

• An abrasive particle will produce a scratch one-half of its size. Thus a 10 micron sized particle will produce a scratch of 5 microns.

• Brightness does not indicate flatness. A gray or matte finish can be just as smooth and accurate as a bright finish.

• Fine, abrasive grit sizes do not mean fine finishes. Abrasives can be too fine. The abrasive should be just coarse enough to abrade or remove the desired amount of stock or metal which causes the abrasive granules to break down into inert sized particles. These fine particles produce the desire finish.

• When measuring flat lapped surfaces, a polish is necessary and an optical flat is used. An optical flat is a transparent disc, preferably quartz. With proper reflective surface conditions, the phenomenon of interference bands is created with an optical flat. When viewed through the optical flat, these bands appear as a pattern of dark strips on the illuminated work surface and can be used with great accuracy to determine the flatness of a surface, that is, the location and amount of concavity or convexity. Straight band indicates a flat surface. Curved or irregular bands show a lack of flatness. Bands that curve toward the line of contact indicate a convex surface and bands that curve away from the line of contact indicate a concave surface.

• To obtain a reading with an optical flat, on a flat work piece, the surface must have a reflective finish and be flat within 0.00005 inches.

• Every abrasive has a different finishing quality as to its brightness or reflective ability. Silicon Carbide abrasive, no matter how used, will only produce a gray, frosted or matte finish.

• A mixture of just oil and abrasive is not a good lapping medium. The abrasive granules should be held in a film on the plate that resists the movement or rolling of abrasive granules. This resistance causes the cutting edges of the abrasive to abrade or remove the metal.

• Our compounds have a pasty base or vehicle which creates an important film. The crushed abrasive granules in this film create a protective medium between the lap and part.

• For lapping various grades of aluminum metal the Garnet and Silicon Carbide compounds are recommended. Line powders are used to create a high polish or mirror finish.

• For lapping hardened steels, stainless, chrome plate, etc. (Rockwell C 55-63), the No. 38, white Aluminum Oxide abrasive compounds are recommended. The No. 38, white Aluminum Oxide abrasive is recommended also for beryllium and ceramics. It is available in all standard sizes.

• The Corundum abrasive is well suited for softer steels.

• Carbon seals should not be lapped with loose abrasive on a plate. The lapping plate should be a bonded abrasive disk using a thin oil lubricant.

• Surface finish is a function of abrasive grit size, part material and part hardness. Coarse abrasives, produce higher r.m.s. finishes than finer abrasives. Harder materials exhibit lower r.m.s. finishes from a given abrasive than softer materials.

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Timur9
31-3-2009 10:22 Timur9    

Только начинаю постигать эту тонкую науку. Можно описать простейшие примеры притиров. Я читал, что к ним относится например стекло, как с ним работать?
Nikolay_K
31-3-2009 10:41 Nikolay_K    

quote:
Только начинаю постигать эту тонкую науку. Можно описать простейшие примеры притиров. Я читал, что к ним относится например стекло, как с ним работать?

со стеклом сложнее работать, чем с чугуном, медью или деревяшкой
не советую начинать со стекла

простейший пример притира --- кусок чугуна, доведенный и отполированный
на него наносят немного суспензии алмаза в бензине, прокатывают чем-нибудь твердым, чтобы алмаз вошел в поверхность, удаляют (смывают тем-же бензином) оставшееся зерно и работают на этом притире также как и на обычном камне

зерно для начала лучше брать в диапазоне 10-20 микрон

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dmd71
31-3-2009 11:00 dmd71    

Информативно. А почему по-английски-то?
Nikolay_K
31-3-2009 11:09 Nikolay_K    

где можно почитать про притиры и их использование:

Machine Shop Training Course
Авторы: Franklin D. Jones
Edition: 5, illustrated
Опубликовано издательством Industrial Press Inc., 1964
ISBN 0831110406, 9780831110406
Всего страниц: 566

начиная со страницы 396 "Lapping and Other Precision Finishing Processes"

http://books.google.ru/books?id=Na-netw27uUC&printsec=frontcover#PPA396,M1

Nikolay_K
31-3-2009 11:12 Nikolay_K    

Audel Automated Machines and Toolmaking
Авторы: Rex Miller
Соавтор Rex Miller
Edition: 5, illustrated
Опубликовано издательством John Wiley and Sons, 2004
ISBN 0764555286, 9780764555282
Всего страниц: 481

со страницы 207 "Laps and Lapping"

http://books.google.ru/books?id=vxFOVsx_J98C&pg=PA207&source=gbs_toc_r&cad=0_0

Nikolay_K
31-3-2009 11:19 Nikolay_K    

quote:
Информативно. А почему по-английски-то?

я же не от себя это писал, а позаимствовал с какого-то сайта, где оно было по-английски

что успел, то перевел

Nikolay_K
31-3-2009 11:47 Nikolay_K    

Handbook of Lapping and Polishing
Авторы: Ioan D. Marinescu, Eckart Uhlmann, Toshiro Doi
Соавтор Ioan D. Marinescu, Eckart Uhlmann, Toshiro Doi
Edition: illustrated
Опубликовано издательством CRC Press, 2006
ISBN 1574446703, 9781574446708
Всего страниц: 491

http://books.google.ru/books?id=GMBOOJUJ_eQC&printsec=frontcover

очень хороший учебник, дает информацию не только о применении притиров, но и о процессах, происходящих при доводке

ivan-3
31-3-2009 14:42 ivan-3    

А вообще в сети достаточно книг по притирам на русском языке - по подготовке, применению и т.д. Дмитрич кокдато давал ссылки на эти книги на еще одном мной любимом форуме http://www.chipmaker.ru/index.php?showforum=53
dmd71
31-3-2009 23:02 dmd71    

Хоть и продолжаю бояться, но спрошу. Вот это о чем?:
quote:
The proper abrasive must be selected and a suitable vehicle or carrier used.

quote:
In the modern method, the abrasive is embodied in a suitable carrying base or vehicle and allowed to roll between the lap and the work.

В то же самое время:

quote:
When there is a super abundance of abrasive rolling loosely on the laps and the work, it is almost impossible to obtain a good finish. The lap wears unduly and the accuracy of the product is sacrificed.

Какая роль свободного абразива вообще? Он же не режет. Вот, что он делает (рис. А):

click for enlarge 873 X 389  41,5 Kb picture

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dmd71
31-3-2009 23:07 dmd71    

quote:
The proper balance is achieved when all abrasive particles break down completely into inert sizes, while removing the desired amount of metal and wearing out the abrasive power of the particles.

Если все частицы сносились, и притир перестал резать, вам нужно его "перезарядить", так? Куда вы будете заряжать новый абразив, если все "щели" забиты "пеньками" от старого? Как вы собираетесь доставать их оттуда? На производствах, насколько я понимаю, есть какие-то ультразвуковые ванны для этого. А дома что делать? Стирать притиры Ретоной?
("Стирать притиры Ретоной" - блин, звучит как Вознесенский )

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W_p
31-3-2009 23:23 W_p    

Когда снег оттает я себе планирую сделать бронзовый. Пока использую деревянные с двумя шлиф. пастами для притирки клапанов и гои. Яп. бруски, алм. бруски и прочие (керамика, сланец) не вдохновили совсем (плюс, я еще плохо угол держу на камнях, на деревяшке до строгания волоса затачивал без проблем).
Timur9
31-3-2009 23:50 Timur9    

quote:
Originally posted by W_p:
Пока использую деревянные с двумя шлиф. пастами для притирки клапанов и гои. на деревяшке до строгания волоса затачивал без проблем).

Расскажите пожалуйста поподробней. Хочу тоже попробовать.

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Iofspy
1-4-2009 01:26 Iofspy    

Стесняюсь спросить ))... А в России кто-то делает еще притиры?
dmd71
1-4-2009 01:55 dmd71    

А зачем? Китай ведь под боком.
ivan-3
1-4-2009 01:56 ivan-3    

Конечно делают! А как без этого?
Я в книжках выложил книгу о доводке мерительного инструмента - так вот все рабочие поверхности всех мерителей доводят только на притирах - ну не на водных же камнях
Т.е. калибры, микрометры, штангели, и т.д. и т.п. все это делается с помощью притиров.
А так каждый сам себе их и прозводит.
dmd71
1-4-2009 01:57 dmd71    

quote:
с двумя шлиф. пастами

quote:
до строгания волоса

Это скорее заслуга не притира, имхо, а паст.
Iofspy
1-4-2009 02:08 Iofspy    

quote:
Originally posted by dmd71:

А зачем? Китай ведь под боком.



Дык, Дмитрий, доставка чугуния из Китая оченно дорогая ))...

quote:
Originally posted by ivan-3:

А так каждый сам себе их и прозводит.


Неужели нет предприятий, которые делают плоские притиры промышленным способом с разумной себестоимостью/ценой продажи???

ivan-3
1-4-2009 02:16 ivan-3    

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